The Last Salmon: A 1,000-Year Tradition Ends on the Exe

"I've done it for 70 years, since I was a tacker... now this fishing will be gone." In this evocative episode of Adventures in Journalism, Martin Hesp heads to the mudbanks of Topsham to join the very last licensed salmon nets-men on the River Exe. For over a millennium, families have used seine-nets to harvest the "king of fish" from these waters, but a new 10-year ban has brought this ancient way of life to a sudden, silent halt. Martin spends a day on the water with 81-year-old Terry Rowsell and Ed Williams, witnessing the back-breaking work and the quiet dignity of men seeing their heritage slip away. From the "empty cool boxes" of a day's hard labor to a final, magnificent wild salmon feast prepared by Chef Tom Williams at the historic Salutation Inn, this is a story about conservation, culinary excellence, and the bittersweet end of an English tradition. In this episode: The Seine-Netting Legacy: How the tradition survived from Roman times to the present day. The Conservation Crisis: Why the ban was implemented and what the fishermen think is really causing the decline in stocks. Wild vs. Farmed: Chef Tom Williams explains why the flavor and color of a River Exe salmon can never be replicated. A Final Taste: A look at the simple, respectful ways to cook a fish that has traveled thousands of miles to return home. For the full article and Tom Williams' wild salmon recipe, visit martinhespfoodandtravel.com.